Friday, September 28, 2012

Driven by Agression, Fueled by Fear

Oh, Georgetown.  You're teaching this suburban girl so much.  Preparing me for the potentials of big city life back in the States, should I ever end up in one.  My street smarts are starting to stack up as high as the palm trees, although I'm no longer as green as its leaf.  I've heard if you can drive in Georgetown, you can drive anywhere, and I believe it.  I'm starting to think if you can bike in Georgetown, the same rule applies.  In the past two weeks, I've actually been present during two motor bike accidents and one of my more exciting mini-bus rides resulted from being side swiped by an over taking car.  Perhaps if the drivers turned up the music a little more, it would help their reflexes.  One morning, I practiced bracing myself during the jolts, protecting my bag and holding my ears closed, all at the same time!  I'm no longer surprised by random people attempting to draw attention to themselves through lewd conduct and strangers instantly thinking they need to be my friend.  In fact, the names I hear while I'm biking are quite entertaining.  Since here is English, everything is explicit.  From "white meat" to "white girl" to "snow flake", prelude always takes form in a kissing, sipping sound and "endearing" baby or sweetie.  I’m privy to homeless men with extremely impressive dreads and zombie-like gates aimlessly moving about the streets.  Once, due to my keen observation skills, I even witnessed a swift, discrete drive by exchange of a very large stack of currency.  And like I mentioned before, petty theft is fairly high here, so I always try to be alertly aware of my surroundings.  I’ve ran through different scenarios in my head and the solution I come up with most of them is to just act crazy.  Being crazy just throws people for a loop.  In fact, it’s one of the suggestions Peace Corps gives us, right before acting out physically.  Each and every day, as I see a little more, I tuck away a little more.  Because at the end of the day, you never know when or where you’ll have to reach into your little bag, to keep them from doing the same.

I celebrated a month in Guyana last Wednesday.  It seems pretty fair, although it feels like I could have easily celebrated six weeks or six months, just as easily.  Living once again in a country with only two seasons, time feels somewhat irrelevant.  It's safe to say that I’m comfortable and familiar with my surroundings, although I haven’t explored too much of the city on my own.  I stick to my bicycle routes, comprised of work, markets, the bank and post office and friend’s houses.  Inevitably, my shirt needs a good ringing out after every single stop.  I’d rather bike or walk than take a taxi, perhaps because I’m frugal, which might limit me, at times, to experience some of the fine dining and entertainment Guyana has to offer.  But, perhaps because I’m frugal, I’d rather buy food to cook, and create my own entertainment, and save the limited spending money allotted, for weekend excursions or giant annual events…enter GuyEXPO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Last night, my friend Susan and I attended the annual event that Guyana holds in Georgetown, featuring businesses, small and large, throughout the country.  A couple of weeks ago, one of my co-workers informed me that GuyEXPO was an event, not to be missed.  Of course, our perception of not to be missed events could easily be as different as our hair products, but as time moved closer to the opening, my curiosity got the best of me and plans were made, tickets were purchased and attend, we did.  And I will admit, she was right.  As a foreigner, I was blown away by the expansiveness and expensiveness of the event.  There are few places when you’re traveling and living abroad, that will remind you of being at home.  A fancy restaurant with adequate or less than adequate service, might be one of them.  Or people bronzing themselves on a beach.  Or a ginormous replication of the Texas or Oklahoma State Fair, as was the case for GuyExpo 2012.  

First thing I did when our tickets were torn?  Splurge on and devour an entire bag of cotton candy.  I was 12 again.  Oh, wait, 22, or 32?  There was a midway.  There was a bounce house.  There were trampolines.  I told Susan that if I were in the right attire, I’d be jumping.  She added…and the right age?  To which I replied, um, I’m not?  We toured business booth, upon business booth, picking up a myriad of pamphlets and brochures, sampled wines, masalas, and Mak-C (the powdered drink mix of choice here).  We saw entertainment out the wazoo, while the scents and smells of amazing food wafted through the air.  We each purchased a couple of items from the AmerIndians, to take back to the homepeople.   She, grass skirts and headdresses for her grandchildren, I crab oil infused soap.

Attending the Expo reminded me, once again of the disparity in this country.  It is something that I’ve been thinking about a lot lately.  Disparity is demonstrated around the world.  The haves and the have-nots.  The working to live and the living to work.  We toured a section of the fair solely dedicated to extravagant home furnishings, just like you’d find at the state fairs back home, and I asked a rhetorical question aloud: how many people can actually afford these things?!   The answer is, actually, a lot of people.  But most people can’t.  Most people probably couldn’t even afford the entrance price of the Expo.  Maybe I’ve been thinking about all of this because when you’re a foreigner, you’re automatically placed in a different financial category or your status is automatically raised.  Many times, you’re “in” with the livin’ large and in charge crowd, whether you deserve to, or even want to…  Back home, I’m nowhere near livin’ large.  The interesting thing about Peace Corps is, even here, I’m nowhere near that status, either.  But I was fortunate to be born in a country and to a family that allowed me the opportunities on which I’ve capitalized and made the most of.  I received an excellent education, which has empowered me to excel in areas about which I’m passionate.  But it’s not just me who received the education and opportunity back home, and THAT is the difference abroad.

In the schools and in the homes, there is a culture of punishment through fear and aggression.  You see it clearly when you’re placed and working within the schools.  Our counselors have their jobs cut out for them.  Decades upon decades of “fixing” “problem” children through violence and voice raising has produced a society of many vocal and aggressive adults.  Of course, not everyone raises their children this way, but if you are not even aware that there’s any other way, and that’s how you were raised, what are your options?  I’m looking forward to helping the counselors with their daunting tasks of behavior change.  First thing on my agenda is showing attention through positive reinforcement.  I tried it out last Monday, during an incredibly aggressive and disruptive group session about safe touches with 13 twelve year old boys.  The counselor noticed it too.  But at the end of the day, you just have to do the best you can.  And at the end of the day, we all fall asleep, even if it’s not in the same place, every night.

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